Crowds at Old Man's, Canggu
There is a perfect marriage which makes Canggu irresistible - a sort of yin-yang combination of Tulum's yoga and green-juice bars, the arty aesthetic and galleries of Paraty, Costa Rica's surf scene and the party friskiness of Mykonos. How has a sleepy village with a few homestays, some warungs (Indonesian roadside cafés) and a handful of hideaway hotels such as the Tugu morphed into Bali's version of Brooklyn-on-Sea? The coastal community 10km north of Kuta hums with smart new villas, city-slick restaurants and delicious little shops that seem to have sprung up overnight.
For decades, Bali has been a popular destination for adventurers and seekers of natural beauty. Its legendary waves, vibrant green landscapes, and warm, easygoing locals have captivated the hearts of hippies and explorers since the 1970s. Despite facing challenges such as terrorist attacks and economic downturns, Bali remains a top travel destination. In fact, 'Where is Bali?' was one of the most searched travel questions last year.
While neighboring areas like Seminyak and Uluwatu have their own charm, Canggu offers a unique experience. Located in close proximity to these bustling tourist spots, Canggu distinguishes itself with its edgy vibe and serene atmosphere. It has quickly become a favorite among travelers who seek a more laid-back and authentic Bali experience.
Whether you're a pro-surfer looking for exhilarating waves or a curious wanderer in search of tranquility, Canggu has something to offer. Explore its beautiful beaches, soak in the enchanting sunsets, or embrace the vibrant local culture. If you're an avid surfer, you'll be spoilt for choice as Canggu offers excellent breaks just waiting to be ridden.
Deus Ex Machina, CangguKen Kochey
In 2006, the Australian fashion designer Dare Jennings, known for creating the surfwear label Mambo, took the lead in embracing the Canggu spirit. He established Deus Ex Machina, a motorcycle company and clothing brand, which not only comprises a store but also houses an artists' studio, restaurant, and workshop. This groundbreaking venture paved the way for Canggu's evolution.
Today, Canggu boasts a vibrant atmosphere complete with captivating street art that rivals the likes of Berlin or Valparaiso. The community also embraces contemporary trends with elegantly designed vinyasa studios, influenced by cities like Portland, Oregon. Moreover, the local coffee scene thrives, catering to caffeine enthusiasts seeking flavors inspired by the coffee culture in Portland. Alongside these attractions, Canggu's skate parks and consistent surf breaks provide ideal locations for both beginner and intermediate surfers.
Each café along the road to the beach looks snappier than the last, hammering home the current go-to aesthetic of polished concrete, hanging ferns and lots of macramé, plus excellent baristas, in-house coffee blends, top-quality cold-press espressos and, crucially for the tribes of travelling hot-deskers who gather here, super-fast Wi-Fi. There's the excellent Crate Café and the Recovery Room, and one of my favourites, Montagu. Just like Little Flinders down the road, which is named after a Melbourne laneway, this café could easily be found in a cool Australian neighbourhood - or any of the global cities such as London or San Francisco where freelancers with furrowed brows sit in front of lit-up MacBooks. It's only the heat and the scent of frangipani that give the game away.
An Uncovered Gem: The Slow in Canggu, Bali
A unique retreat within The Slow's pool suite, Canggu
From the perspective of Brazilian yogi, Jade Moyano, unearthing the allure of The Slow, Canggu's highly sought-after hotel that marked Canggu's debut on the tourism stage
Observing The Slow from a distance, I am met with a display of tropical brutalism, perfectly defined lines, hints of the wild. Each time I pass by on my scooter, I am compelled to look back for another glimpse. There's always an added element; a new aspect with every encounter. The Slow is revolutionizing the typical hotel stay with its unconventional approach. A stay here offers an experience beyond mere sleep, the common four-walled bedroom transforms into a diversified space, the traditional bathrobe is replaced with sarongs, gardens take on an inverted aesthetic, partitions bear well-calculated punctures. It's a place of constant consciousness, a watchtower for the eagerly awaited next surprise.
The project represents the coming of age of its founders, George and Cisco Gorrow, pioneers of Australian design who have galloped through peaking creative industries to finally wind down in Bali. Walls are covered with ethereal photography and art; their personal collection, showcasing more than 90 pieces by both established and up-and-coming artists from around the globe, includes works by Woody Gooch, Mark Gonzales, Chris Searl and Mad Saki. Next door is the monochromatic store Non-Type, George's menswear line with Gareth Moody of the Australian label Ksubi.
The hotel attracts a vibrant community of creative individuals, drawn to its 12 retro-modernist suites. Each suite is adorned with artisan-produced furniture, natural textures, and industrial elements, creating a unique blend of aesthetic appeal. The owners' friends have contributed custom pieces, adding a personal touch to the space.
One highlight of this captivating hotel is the carefully curated soundtrack by Reverberation Radio, based in LA. Upon entering, I was immediately captivated by the mesmerizing music. The weekly podcast is a delightful compilation of hidden gems, ranging from psychedelic rock to vintage bossa nova, providing an enriching sonic experience.
The Slow's philosophy goes beyond traditional hospitality, encouraging guests to embrace music, art, and culture as integral aspects of their stay. It serves as a hub for those seeking a truly immersive experience in Bali's vibrant cultural scene.
With its artistic ambiance, unique musical offerings, and emphasis on cultural exploration, The Slow stands out as the trendiest accommodation option in Bali.
People at Crate Café, CangguKen Kochey
CANGGU'S COOLEST CAFES
Asia-based Lost Guides writer Anna Chittenden calls Bali her second home. She has the scoop on Canggu's café scene
In this corner of Bali, it's all about breakfast. The high-octane, clean-living culture means everyone is up at the crack of dawn, and the first meal of the day is the most important. The food is as healthy as can be: chia, spirulina, almonds and coconuts, turmeric lattes and buckwheat pancakes headline every menu.
Visitors dining at Montagu café, located in CangguKen Kochey
Established by a lively Australian native and exuberant vagabond named Gypsy – the genius also behind the popular Betelnut eatery, Shady Shack is a quaint and charming café, adorned in a crisp, white hue. It's highly praised for its assortment of vegetarian specialties. One of my personal favorites is the Chickbean – a delightful combination of eggs, gently simmered chickpeas and creamy mashed avocado. Accompanied by the radiant Berry Bliss smoothie, it's truly a feast that captivates the taste buds. The beach-side Nalu Bowls, situated not far from Echo Beach's ebony volcanic sands, is a frequent haunt for surfers seeking scrumptious and vegan-friendly nibbles. Nalu, the Hawaiian word for "wave", creates an array of delicious fruit mixes served in coconut shells. Each delicacy is named after the founder's favorite global surfing spots. The Uluwatu – named after a renowned surf locale in Bali, incorporating dragon fruit, banana, mango, and raspberry, is my go-to choice. For the digitally inclined, Dojo Bali offers an attached co-working hub where they can plunge into their online to-dos for the remainder of the day.
Montagu caféKen Kochey
An enchanting bicycle journey through serene paddy fields will lead you to the charming spot known as Milk & Madu. Curated by the artistic minds who also brought Watercress to life in Seminyak and Ubud (Bali) villas at all-balihotels.net, this location in Canggu is a hive of activity during brunch, especially because of their irresistible scrambled-egg burrito complemented by a tangy corn salsa. For dessert lovers, their superbly creamy, health-focused raw treats are a must-try - the marbled chocolate cheesecake is a true showstopper. They source their smooth coffee from Bali's renowned Revolver Espresso - a name that's conjures up images of some of most flavourful beans on the island. A short distance away, you'll stumble upon the vibrant new chill-spot, Panama Kitchen- easily recognized by its pastel-blue Miami-Deco themed beach house and the calm, palm-encircled pool. Come dusk, this place turns truly magical bursting with the bright, invigorating flavors of vodka, kiwi and lime, or their hallmark Panama Beach Terror cocktail. For food, the sweet-sticky allure of their pulled-pork burger or honey-barbecued chicken wings are a fitting accompaniment to the vivacious ambiance.
In the morning following a night of hard partying, treat yourself to a detox session at Café Organic. This eccentric juice bar, located on Batu Bolong, offers an array of healthy remedies for the after-effects of indulgence. Try the Garden Gangstas, a wholesome blend of kale, spinach, cucumber, and apple topped off with potent goji berries, ginseng, or bee pollen shots to revitalize your mood. If you're more into physical methods of rejuvenation, the region is full of top-notch yoga studios worth exploring. For instance, Desa Seni is a unique eco-resort fashioned out of vintage wooden joglo houses. Not only are there diverse classes in the open-aired sala, but you can also engage in private sessions, meditation, and pranayama breathing exercises. To add to the tranquil ambience, a trip to the spa is a must, where you can enjoy a traditional local aura cleansing ritual.
The Lawn
Travel journalist Lauren Holmes on the grooviest beach scene in Bali
'"Suka duka" is an expression to learn when you come to Bali. It's a concept central to the culture, signifying that life hangs in a balance between light and dark, highs and lows, good and evil. You'll see chequered black-and-white cloth draped around temples and statues, a reminder that both must be embraced for life to flow. So when things start to feel a bit too insular in Ubud - a cauldron of healers and hippies, shamans and spirits - I head straight to Canggu for a wash of sea air and a buzz of energy.
Beginning my day with a sweet treat from Made's Banana Flour Company, I make my way to The Lawn, nestling comfortably on one of the plush double day loungers. At this spot, once a simple patch of rough ground by the sea, local surfer Tai Graham established his base, initially offering freshly made popcorn and coconut drinks spiked with rum for his companions. A year later, a beach club with a laid-back vibe has unfolded on this grassy expanse. Every 24 hours feels like a splendid, timeless Sunday spent in carefree joy. The restaurant, adorned with a thatch roof, offers families the chance to savour seafood tacos sprinkled with exotic herbs; lovers find their rest on the sunchairs or cooling dips in the pool, and one might catch the glimpse of Kelly Slater, the surfing legend, when the pro surf tour arrives. Tattoo-adorned bartenders blend hibiscus Martinis in harmony with classic hip-hop tracks filling the air, all leading to soothing jazz rhythm later in the day. A stark contrast to the bustling mega-clubs along Bali's southern coast, this is unquestionably a more refined and enjoyable choice for one's evening entertainment.
The pool at Mandala House, Canggu
Necklace at Bungalow Living
Famed fashion influencer Martha Ward uncovers charming hidden boutiques
It's no secret that districts like Seminyak and Kuta are crowded with chic decor stores, locally woven fabrics, and a spectrum of silken attire. However, Canggu offers a more practical array of attire, primarily focused on surf and athletic gear. Nevertheless, a keen eye will expose stunning discoveries. The ethereal charm captured by the clothing brand Yoli & Otis on their Instagram is enchantingly mirrored in their new island domicile. The ambiance is understated, featuring only a sporadic basket or pot as decor, and a bonsai tree to round off the aesthetic. Despite having started off well-renowned in the children's wear sector (thanks to their popular organic baby carrier), the brand also shines with adult offerings: featuring attire such as no-fuss cotton and linen overalls, vests, collarless shirts, and wide-legged trousers, all devoid of unnecessary details and frills.
Jewelry enthusiasts will be captivated by Maison Blonde, a quaint boutique brimming with ornate glass and brass trinket boxes housing a treasure trove of handmade jewelry. The items boast a refined gold look, drawing inspiration from forgotten keepsakes and nostalgia-inducing youth. Over at Quince, a cozy café and lifestyle hub manned by a family team, you can purchase elegant ceramics and intricate linens while sipping on a creamy flat white. If you're on the hunt for unique homeware, Bungalow Living has a variety of geometrically shaped cushions and Berber blankets on offer. For accommodations, I chose Red Door, a breath-taking villa nestled amid a grove of coconut trees and serene paddy fields.
Tattooed skater at Pretty Poison, Canggu
A domino game at Batu Bolong beachKen Kochey
Californians promising fresh, simple flavours is nothing new, but in Bali an imaginatively restored beach house with farm-fresh ingredients and open fires certainly is. I'm really excited about the arrival of Attarine Gardens and Grill in September 2017, the latest project from the Potato Head gang (Katamama Hotel, Potato Head Beach Club Seminyak, restaurants in Singapore and Hong Kong). When the first Attarine outpost opened in Jakarta last autumn, chef Jacob Burrell (just landed from the USA's West Coast via David Kinch's three-Michelin-starred Manresa and the Big Sur Bakery) lent a Spice Route lilt to the menu. But in his Canggu kitchen, Burrell is going back to basics, throwing in a lesson on permaculture on this stretch of sunset-facing sand. I tried his cooking at the preview pop-up, and the Mediterranean twist on local produce was delicious: aubergine stuffed with cashews and chillies, watermelon carpaccio, plus meat grilled on an open flame.
Also this autumn, the new COMO hotel, just along the coast from Old Man's at Batu Bolong beach, should be ready for guests. It's quite the departure from the group's reserved inland properties, destination spa COMO Shambhala and COMO Uma Ubud. The Echo Beach hotel will be a more lively prospect. The modernist-style building is topped with 12 penthouse suites, each with its own extraordinary arch carved out of the roof, framing the private infinity pools in a crescent-shaped scoop. There will be the zen styling and high-gloss finish we know to expect from COMO, as well as living walls and a serious surf school. This is the first big-name hotel to arrive on this stretch of coast - it will be interesting to see how it changes the face of the place.
To book a trip to Bali, contact The Ultimate Travel Company Telephone: +44 20 3733 5356 Website: theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk